How to Install Nu. Core Flooring. YOU GUYS. The 7. 0’s Landing Pad is actually starting to not look like a construction zone. Well, it’s starting to not look like a construction zone in the living room, dining room and hallway anyway. After getting paint on the walls week before last, we’ve been putting down the new flooring in the hallway, living and dining rooms.
This flooring will also go in the kitchen, stair landing and in the downstairs foyer as well, we just haven’t gotten that far yet. I’m finally moving past the point of “Oh my word, what have we gotten ourselves into?” to “Oh my word, it actually looks like a house and it’s pretty!” We still have quite a ways to go in the overall renovation, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel, y’all. The flooring we are using for the kitchen, dining room, living room, hallway and all those other places where there’s going to be a lot of foot traffic is Nu. Core from Floor & Decor. Nu. Core is an engineered floor that has a tough top layer of luxury vinyl adhered to a stable, rigid, and waterproof core. I’ll be the first to say there isn’t a thing about this flooring that looks cheap or even like vinyl – I’ll also admit I had my doubts in the beginning. I partnered with Floor & Decor on the flooring and after a slew of emails full of questions about Nu.
Core between myself and Sarah from Floor & Decor, we finally opted to go with the Nu. Core Cocoa Oak Handscraped Planks. One of my doubts was how easy installation was supposed to be. Word on the street was that it snapped together (tongue and groove), no glue or nailing required and it could go over most any existing floor, with the exception of carpet.
How To Install Baseboard When Floor Uneven Between Rooms Vent
Word on the street was accurate. You’ll need: Step 1. Unlike hardwood, Nu.
HD offers a "72 hour install" for carpeting. There are very limited carpet selections for this service, understandable and makes sense. I went to the store to ask. The floor has to be extraordinarily flat. If your floor isn’t flat this will accentuate the problems with the crown of the tiles as you can see in the image on the. Garage Door Threshold Seals keeps out rain, snow, leaves, rodents.and it installs in minutes! More durable than door mounted weatherstripping, our floor mounted.
Core does not have to acclimate to your home’s temperature before being installed. You can start as soon as you get it. You can install Nu. Core over most existing flooring. Carpet is an exception.
If you want to put it where carpet currently is, you will need to remove the carpet first, which is what we had to do. Pull up any staples that are left from the carpet pad and remove any carpet tack strips. For your first row, you will simply snap the short edges of the flooring together, which easily lock into one another. After finishing the first row, place a few pieces of the flooring vertically along the baseboard of the room. Put your first row flush against these pieces. This will keep your first few rows of flooring from sliding in the beginning. Step 2. For the second row of flooring, you will snap the tongue and groove into each other.
Simply hold a piece of Nu. Core at a 4. 5° angle and snap it into the piece in front of it. Step 3. Use a rubber mallet to secure the joints. You do want to make sure you stagger your joints as shown below. You will have to cut pieces in order to do this sometimes and obviously you will have to cut pieces as you get to the end of rows.
To cut Nu. Core, measure to determine what length you need, mark it on the plank, score it with a utility knife and snap it at the cut. Super simple. After installing all the flooring, you will want to trim out around the edges with quarter round molding to cover the small gap.
For many years, the standard way to build a crawl space involved venting the crawl space walls and installing fiberglass batt insulation between joists in the crawl.
If you have to go around door trim or jambs, you can cut the wood with a jigsaw. Mark where you need to cut, drill a small hole to get you started, then use the jigsaw to cut the flooring. Grunt Labor and I made a quick video to show you how to install Nu.
Core. It is really as simple as it looks. And when it’s installed, it looks just like hardwood. It’s gorgeous. I’m also pretty pumped about the fact that it’s waterproof, so that when the Circus doesn’t tell me she spilled her juice hours later, it won’t be that big of a deal. UPDATE: I DID A REVIEW OF OUR NUCORE FLOORING ONE YEAR LATER. YOU CAN READ ABOUT IT HERE. What are your thoughts? You know you don’t wanna miss any of this crazy.
Sign up to get my posts delivered to your inbox here. Stalk Me Here: Pinterest / Facebook / Twitter / Google+ / Instagram. Disclosure: This post was in partnership with Floor & Decor. However, all opinions and love of easy- to- install flooring are 1.
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Installing a Commercial Steel Door. About six years ago, I remodeled an Avis car rental office.
Prior to the remodel, the office had a showroom of cars on display, complete with showroom- style glass so that the cars could be seen from the road. Avis wanted to give the office a softer, more residential look, so the glass was removed, a wall was framed, and double- hung windows and vinyl cedar shake siding were installed. At the time, I figured my only option was to install a metal residential door—a typical one you’d find in a home, made of galvanized light- gauge steel—and a wood frame. I didn’t know I could get a raised panel commercial steel door with glass back then! This decision to use a residential door in a commercial setting was a mistake from day one.
The overall construction of a residential door is incapable of standing up to the demands of a commercial setting, and it affected the door’s usability and overall integrity. And because the door was relatively light, and there was a closer attached to it by code, the door would slam shut when it was left to close automatically. It shook the entire office, and caused a major disruption to the workday. Of course, more recently, I received a phone call from the Avis office, asking me to return to look at the residential door I installed years ago. This is what the job looked like when I returned to it. The door had obviously seen better days.(Note: Click any image to enlarge)I knew this time we’d need to install a commercial steel door and frame. After all, there is a reason why steel doors and frames are used in commercial settings—they’re strong, durable, fire resistant, and heavy enough that when you attach a closer to them, you can gear them down so they don’t slam shut all the time.
Why Steel Doors and Steel Jambs. This was my eighth steel- door installation. I could’ve used a Ti. C article before I did my first one!
Unlike wood, there is no forgiveness when working with steel. This can make it a daunting task for those of us who are primarily familiar with wood. My hope is that this article will help a residential contractor become more familiar with the proper steps of installing a commercial steel door, and installing a continuous hinge for a steel door. Continues hinges aren’t very common because they’re expensive. But they’re something that I often recommend to my customers because they are such a good product (I used Steelcraft- brand for the doors, and Select Hinges for the continues hinge on this project.) Steel doors are very rugged, and heavy! Their weight can often lead to failure at the three hinge points, depending on how roughly the door is handled. That’s why I like the continuous hinge—it’s more like a piano- hinge, which gives you full contact up the side of the door and jamb, making it nearly impossible for it to come off its pivot point and cause problems.
In fact, two of the replacement doors I have done actually had continuous hinges. In both cases, I just ordered new doors and reused the hinges! More often than not, you’ll replace the door because of rust and overall wear before you’ll replace the hinge. Before Heading to the Jobsite. Most of the time, if a project requires painting, I’ll do it myself. For this job, the first step was to paint the door and jamb for finish installation. I knew that, unlike wooden doors, there weren’t going to be any adjustments or areas I would be able to plane down for a perfect fit.
Also, being an active business, there would be no way to paint the door in- place after installation. I used my trusty door horses (a tip from Fine Homebuilding!), which allowed the door to pivot so I could easily access both sides at the same time and lay it flat to dry. I sprayed an oil- based paint with my HVLP sprayer, giving it a perfectly smooth finish. On the Job: Preparing the Opening. When I got to the jobsite, I began by removing the old door and preparing the opening for the new installation. I started by removing the exterior and interior moldings, taking care to not damage the interior wall.
One obstacle was the A- frame awning, which had been installed a few years earlier. Unfortunately it was built on the ground and fastened to the wall right over the siding and upper door molding.
I decided to work around this problem, since it was more important to get the door back in the opening before the end of the day. At this point, it was important to make sure I had enough clearance on either side for the jamb to slip over both the interior and exterior sheathings. You want to have plenty of clearance. When it’s time to put the jamb in place, you’ll fight it the whole way if it’s too tight.
When I placed the door order, I specified that the wall was 6 ½ in. Plus it allowed room for the Vycor waterproofing I installed around the rough opening. Next I applied the waterproofing sill membrane. Luckily the sill was already pitched toward the outside for drainage.
Most waterproofing membranes are applied with a pressure- activated self- adhesive. I find that when the temperature outside is cooler, it doesn’t adhere as well as it would on a hot summer day. To aid the process, I like to use spray glue, which ensures a good bond between surfaces. I also like to use it in places that don’t see a lot of sun. On this project, I used the regular 3. M spray glue found at the local hardware store.
I typically use spray foam insulation around all doors and windows. But due to the way steel jambs are installed, I find the best way to add insulation on jambs like these is to use pieces of fiberglass batt insulation, cut from the roll.
I set the jamb on top of the fiberglass and used it as a cutting guide to ensure a snug fit. I then applied spray contact adhesive to the inside of the jamb and set the fiberglass pieces in place.
Using the adhesive keeps the fiberglass in place while you’re handling them (otherwise they’ll just fall out). I cut the fiberglass approximately six inches from the floor, and I used spray foam at the bottom to give it a much better seal for moisture and insects.(By the way, is there something the manufacturers know that I don’t? I can never figure this out: there is only one possible length that will work for a 3- 0 door, and yet it’s manufactured about a half inch longer. For what purpose?!
But I digress.)Installing the Hinge on the Jamb. Next, I installed the hinge on the jamb.
After removing the cover that hides the exterior fasteners, it was time to attach the hinge to the frame. Installing the Door on the Hinge. It was then time to install the door. The hinge came with two center punches and two types of screws for mounting it to the door. Using the small center punch provided with the hinge, I marked locations for the small self- tapping pan- head screws and drilled pilot holes.
I used a minimal number of those screws to temporarily secure the door so that it would hang properly with an appropriate reveal. Next, I removed the small screws and placed the door on a set of sawhorses.
After removing the hinge from the jamb, I placed the hinge on the door so that I could locate the through- holes that had to be drilled for each sex bolt. The sex bolts are what really secure the hinge to the door. A step bit is extremely handy when you’re installing steel doors. It doesn’t dull quickly, like other bits. Most steel doors are made from a thin sheet of metal, so using this bit works extremely well for boring large holes. Now this is important: If there is going to be a kick plate on the inside of the door, you want to refrain from drilling the last through bolt. Otherwise you’re going to drill right through your kick plate, and it won’t look very good.
Instead, you can simply use a self- tapping screw, which the manufacturers provide. When drilling the holes, you’ll naturally create metal shards just as you make dust with wood. By force of habit, I would either wipe or blow them away.
But both of these methods aren’t good when working with metal. After setting the hinge, the glass was next.
You need to apply some window glazing to the exterior side of the flange. Window glazing wasn’t provided with the door or the glass, and I couldn’t get it from my supplier, so I got some from my local glass company. I then positioned the glass and snapped on the interior flange. Then it was time to set the strike plate. The instructions say to drill and tap for a 1. One typical challenge when using the continuous hinge comes when attaching the sweep seal.